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Stacked official word:
The BSD Safari frame is a tall BMX frame designed to shred the streets anywhere on the planet. The long front end tracks super straight and the super short rear end let you maneuver in any situation. The gussets on the both top tube and down tube make it extra rigid and the state of the art BMX frame geometry make this an animal you can’t tame. HIt the road on get wild.

BSDofficial word:
The Safariframe is designed for Reed Stark with a super long front end combined with a short back end and regular head angle. Its built for urban adventure wherever your street safari takes you.

Specs:

Toptube: 20.6, 21, 21.4, 21.8

Headtube Angle: 75

Chainstays: 13 – 13.5

Stand over: 9.5

Seat tube Angle: 71

BB height: 11.75

Tire clearance: 2.5″

seat clamp: integrated

Gusset: external down tube & top tube

headset: Integrated 1 1/8″

Gyro compatible: yes

Bottom Bracket: Mid

Brake mounts: removable

Axle slot: 14mm

dropouts: 5mm thick invest cast

chain tensioners: Yes

Material: 4130 chromoly

Heat treated: Yes

Weight: 5.3lbs

Stacked BMX Frame build recommendations

Forks

Headset

Bars

Stem

Grips

Front hub

Spokes

Rim

Tires

Tubes

Seat

Seat post

Cranks

Bottom Bracket

Sprocket

Pedals

Chain

Brakes

Rear Hub

Pegs

Frame bag

BMX Frame size guide

20.6″ – 5′ – 5’9″

21″ – 5’10” – 6’2″

21″ – 6’2″+

BMX frame Geometry explained

Toptube: This is how long the frame tube between your seat and handlebars is. The shorter it is the less room you have but the easier it is to spin. The longer the top tube the straighter it tracks and the harder to spin. Most street riders use a shorter top tube to do 360’s & tailwhip easier. Most dirt riders use a longer top tube to help steering at high speeds. The sizes and height recommendations above are suggested. If you go up or down a size of frame you will feel the effect more than normal. Try as many frames as you can to find what works best for you.

Headtube Angle: This is the angle of your forks. The higher the number the steeper it is and the more responsive it is. Many street riders use a steep head tube to make nose manuals and other maneuvers easier. A mellow head tube the straighter the bike tracks and even makes it easier to ride with no hands. Trail riders use a mellow head tube to help with control going at high speeds. Try different head tubes and see what helps you ride the best.

Chainstays: This is the distance between the center of your cranks spindle bolt and the center of you rear axle. Shortening or extending this effects your wheel base which allows your bike to react faster or stay riding straight. Street riders love a short rear end because it assist you with spins in or out of grinds. It also makes manuals and hopping out of grind easier. Trail riders run a long rear end to prevent them from looping out and keeping the bike stable while hauling a$$. Try some different chain stay lengths and find out which one you love.

Stand over: Stand over height is how tall the top tube is and can make a frame look tall or squished. Park riders prefer a low stand over for feet tricks and tail whips. Street riders and trail riders usually lean toward tall stand overs for aesthetics. Try as many stand overs to find out which one looks the best with your seat height.

Seat tube Angle: This is the angle of the seat and can change where your seat is. A mellow seat tube will put the seat closer to the rear tire and a steeper one will pull it away. Most frames are 70 or 71 degrees now a days so you don’t have to worry about much.

BB height: This is the height from the ground to the center of your crank arm bolt. The lower it is the easier to manual but causes you frame to hit when doing crooked grinds. The higher the bottom bracket the easier to pump jumps and clear your frame during crooked grinds. Try a bunch of bottom bracket heights to discover your preference.

Tire clearance: This is how wide the chain stays and seat stay on the rear of the frame are. Frames that are 10 years or older have a high chance of narrow tire clearance. This smaller size will not fit a 2.4″ wide tire and will force you to run a 2.25″ or smaller tire. Newer frames usually have 2.4″+ clearance and will allow you to put. a larger tire on your bike. This is a no brainer, get a newer frame if you have an old one.

Gusset: Gussets are an extra piece of metal that is welded between junctions of two tubes. They give the tubes extra strength in that area.

headset: The headset is the bearings that allow the handlebars to spin with the least amount of friction. They come in different sizes and styles based on how the frame was configured. A combination of threadless headsets is the normal now a days. Inch and an eight or 1 1/8″ Threadless headset utilize cups that are pressed in the frame, bearings sit in them, a race, a compression spacer and a side pinch bolt stem keep everything together. A integrated headset use a similar method but the cups go inside the frame without pressing them in. The cups have. a45 degree angle on them which prevents frame damage and you headset coming loose. Both of these styles are used with an 1 1/8″ Threadless forks which has no threads on the fork tube. A star nut which is a bolt is inside of the fork tube. This allows you to install your stem, use a fork bolt and cap to pull your headset together and then tighten the side bolts of your stem to keep it tight.

Gyro compatible: A gyro is a device that goes around your frame and headset which is attached to brake cables. This gadget lets you spin your handlebars as much as you like without your cable getting bound up and your brake still work. Most frames have integrated headset now and the only way you can install a gyro is to have hole drilled and tapped. Gyro tab will bolt up to the holes and provide the necessary cable stops.

Bottom Bracket: This is the shell and bearing size of your frame and your crank spindle. Bottom Brackets come in American which is the size Soda Can, Mid which is the size of a red bull can, a Euro which has thread in it, and the misfit Spanish which is bigger than the euro and smaller than the mid with a mid style bearing. Mid has been triumphant for strength, compatibility and ease of installation.

Brake mounts: Brake mounts are removable on most frame now. They have multiple different styles and I recommend you purchasing brake mounts from the manufacture of the frame to increase compatibility.

Axle slot: This is what size axle fits in the rear of the frame. Most are frames are 14mm.

chain tensioners: Many frames have built in chain tensioners. They are a bolt that goes thru the drop out and pushes the axle when tightened. This helps you straighten your rear end and tighten your chain.

BMX frame paint: We can powder coat your frame almost any color. You can ship or bring your bike to us complete, I will take it apart, store your parts, powder coat it, build it back up. Contact us for pricing.

Shipping and handling:Ships next business day, not including the day your order is placed. Excludes weekends and holidays.

***FREE SHIPPING!!! I offer FREE SHIPPING on THIS BIKE,read this informationto find out how & other information about shipping.